Fifty Miles Later

Disbelief, relief, pain, gratitude, liberation, pride and pure, unbounded elation. I’m not a “crier” but I wasn’t too far off on Saturday as I stumbled across the finish line, too exhausted to resist this flood of emotion . Fortunately I was too tired and/or shocked to do anything but collapse into a chair and babble on about nothing.

Before the ultramarathon I’d never run more than 15.54 miles or climbed more than 259m elevation in one run. It’s not that I’m lazy – having signed up drunk in April I developed shin splints within a week, having run too much too soon (remarkably they didn’t resurface at all during the race, perhaps thanks to compression socks, or the fact that everything hurt anyway). I was also on antibiotics for a mysterious infection and spent most of the previous night being snotty (<4hrs sleep is not ideal). Needless to say I didn’t fancy my chances of completing 25 miles, let alone the full 50, along with 2,600m of the Peak District’s finest elevation – roughly equivalent to two Ben Nevises. I’d never even completed a proper trail run – I was used to pavement-pounding and had never worn off-road running shoes in my life.

So everything seemed to be against me. But a miracle happened and I completed  the 50-mile ultramarathon in a relatively respectable (for a clueless and ridiculously unprepared first timer) time of 11 hours 20 minutes. I came 10th in the race and 4th in my age category. The winner completed it in 10hrs 2mins and the last person finished in 16 hrs 16mins, so if you look at it that way I was towards the front; some runners didn’t finish at all. Considering that I was ecstatic to have even completed the race, the fact that I wasn’t even close to being the last person in absolutely blew my mind.

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Rushing to get to the 0540 brief (I was late)

0-10miles

The run started at 6am. Everything went smoothly for a while; the pace was slow, there were lots of runners so no chance of getting lost, and the golden-blue sky was clear as the sun rose over Sheffield, nestled behind the heather-covered moors of Houndkirk and Burbage. I “made friends” just before checkpoint 1, then took on Stanage Edge – a long, picturesque stretch that would have been harder if I hadn’t been concentrating on hopping from rock to rock without breaking an ankle.

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Burbage South, bright and early

10-20miles

I overtook my new friends briefly on a downhill forest section and rejoined them at checkpoint 5, the first bag dropoff and cutoff time checkpoint. I was amazed to have got there in a couple of hours, despite the cutoff allowing 4hrs 30mins. Next up was more rockhopping at High Neb, then I was lulled into a false sense of security on the descent past Bamford to checkpoint 7. I called Bertie, my support crew, to tell him I was (amazingly) still going and could meet him for a top-up of frogspawn drink (Iskiate) at checkpoint 11.

20-21miles

Then I hit Win Hill. It sounds innocuous enough and means nothing if you’ve never climbed it. We’d recently been joined by the tens of runners doing the 30-mile ultra, and I’d picked up an “Aussie Bite” snack from checkpoint 7 – big mistake. As I entered the woods I found myself in a long, gasping line of people (literally) dragging themselves up a  super-steep, super rocky and often slippery “path” that seemed to go on and on and on. I can’t imagine anyone in the world actually running up a section like that – every step I took felt like I had a lead weight tied to each foot, and I passed several people who had stopped to rest. Then I found out that an Aussie Bite is, while delicious, probably the crumbliest snack that ever existed and totally unsuitable for eating while breathing heavily on an ascent. You can’t chew, swallow and/or breathe through your mouth simultaneously. Nevertheless, a miracle happened and I made it to the trig point without stopping, choking or collapsing in a whimpering heap.

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“Out of the woods”

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Win Hill summit

21-28miles

Running again. Fast forward about two minutes and my calves started cramping. I thought my time had come. I gave them a quick rub and downed an isotonic carb gel that I’d grabbed as a last-minute “experiment” from Go Outdoors. The pain subsided and came back intermittently, but I’d rejoined my previous group and talking to them helped a lot as we ran across the stunning, open moorland of Hope Brink and Crookstone Hill. On any other day I’d marvel at the way the sun warmed the deep  purple, bright green and pale gold hillsides blanketed by heather, ferns and rough grass, but I realised that was not this day as I pounded along narrow, rocky, ankle-breaker paths. My legs felt weak and I really thought I’d have to stop soon. A steep, uneven and knee-jarringly tough descent preceded checkpoint 11 at Edale, which was also bag dropoff 2 with a cutoff time of 9hrs 20mins. Amazingly I’d made it in  around six hours. Bertie was too late to meet me – he arrived a couple of hours later!

28-38miles

Handfuls of pasta, lucozade, crisps, haribo and energy bar later, I paired up with a lovely 50-mile runner  who spurred me on throughout the rest of the race. He waited for me as I dragged my lead-legs up more nasty ascents, ran with me along the flat and downhill sections, stopped me going the wrong way a handful of times and was lovely to talk to. We headed through Castleton (a pretty town which I was too tired to appreciate fully), out to Old Moor and down to Bradwell, where we stopped at checkpoint 15 – which was also bag dropoff 3 with a cutoff time of 14hrs 30mins. Incredibly we’d made it in less than 8 hours; I was amazed – I’d put my headtorch in my dropbag just in case I’d have to carry on in the dark, but it wasn’t yet 2pm! After a 20min rest, a drink of pepsi and handfuls of snacks we felt rejuvenated and carried on.

38-48miles

My knee hurt. Bradwell Hill was horrible. The descent to Brough was horrible. The path to Hathersage was pretty, but long and horrible. Hathersage Moor was stunning but horrible and I would almost certainly have got lost alone. Somehow we mustered the strength to run up, across and down the long, gravelly tracks of Houndkirk Moor, even overtaking another runner (it was horrible). I stuck behind my friend, focusing on his shoes and not looking ahead at where the track met the horizon. Horrible.

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Burbage South again, less perky this time… But still smiling

48-50miles

At the last checkpoint – number 19 – I noticed that my shoelace was undone, but didn’t care enough to do it up. Endurance running does funny things to you – I thought I saw a jellyfish by the side of the path. I thought I had a leech on my leg, only to realise it was a bit of flappy skin from a cut. Despite mutual exhaustion, my friend and I both felt the lure of the finishline less than two miles away and managed what felt like a sprint along a track, through the woods and towards the farm at Whirlow. I barely heard the cheers as I stumbled across the finish line, didn’t see the cameras, and don’t remember who shook my hand or gave me a medal.

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Elation

As delighted as I am that I had the fitness, strength and willpower to finish, I cannot stress how incredibly lucky I was. Everything that could have gone wrong went in my favour:

1. Weather: Perfect – dry, clear and not too warm – mid to late teens, I think. This meant that I didn’t get too hot or cold, wasn’t beaten up by wind or rain and didn’t have slippery, muddy ground to contend with.

2. Equipment: The shoes and hydration pack that arrived on the doorstep two days before (yes, a huge gamble) fit perfectly and performed even better than I could have hoped. My brand new (purchased on the journey) camelback bladder didn’t leak and kept me hydrated.

3. Food and water: I had no idea what to eat or drink, how much or when, but I made it and I wasn’t sick so I must have got something right.

4. People: I’d expected to run alone, listening to music or an audiobook. I thought my luck had failed me early on when I couldn’t get my phone to pair with my Bluetooth headphones, but this meant that instead of being antisocial I ended up talking to – and sticking to the pace of – other runners. This helped hugely, as conversation really took my mind off the exertion of running and the worry of slowing others down motivated me to keep my pace up. Also, the runners I befriended had previously done recce trips so they knew the way – I would almost have certainly got lost if I’d navigated alone. Everyone we saw out on the trails gave way to us, and there were so many kind words of encouragement from walkers and spectators that if I wasn’t so tired I would have been overwhelmed.

I mean it when I say it was horrible, but there’s more to it than that. It’s a “nice” kind of horrible. I can only compare it to “nice” pain – like the ache in your muscles after a good workout, or the pressure of a firm massage. I was drugged by a dizzying mix of exercise-induced endorphins, event-induced adrenaline and trauma-induced pain signals. My left knee had been getting more and more painful for about twenty miles (and I still can’t straighten it or walk properly, five days later) and my legs felt like lead-filled jelly, but I couldn’t wipe the stupid grin off my face. Looking back at the photos, it’s there in all of them.

Before the race I didn’t expect to make half way, but the people I was with were so positive and encouraging. They were surprised at how young I was to be doing an ultra and they seemed to have such (unwarranted) faith in me – even before the 25-mile mark – that even I started to believe that I could finish, despite my legs telling me otherwise. These people had put up with my annoying little voice and inexplicable perma-grin for more miles than I could count and I didn’t want to let them down by pulling out. They’ll probably never read this, but thank you to everyone I ran with – especially Helen, Paul, Danny and Dave. And to everyone who supported me, sent me encouraging texts and told me (affectionately) that I’m an idiot – I appreciated every message. Also well done and thank you to every single runner out there at the weekend, I don’t think I’ve ever seen such positivity, resilience and kindness among a group of so-called “competitors”.

To conclude, of all the things I’ve achieved, this is what I’m most proud of. Twenty years in education, half-decent grades and the occasional academic award seem insignificant compared to jumping from 15 to 50 miles in a day. I’ve never pushed through such acute pain or such a burning desire to stop, and the best thing of all is that I believe I had more in me. In fact I know I had more in me, because I was still running at the end. I entered the race hoping to find out my own limits and see how far I could push myself, but this experience has taught me that they’re much further away than I realised. So I’ll just have to try harder… I’m hooked and I can’t wait till next time, whatever “next time” is.

 

Endnote – I got a new phone last week, discovered an automatic app called Clips and made some videos following my (lack of) preparation, journey to the Peak District, and the ultra itself. These were loads of fun to make so I think I’ll do more in the future – I’ve put them on my brand spanking new Youtube channel CuriousGnome, feel free to laugh at my face… I’m going to write a separate post on tips for a first ultra and some kit reviews, so bear with! Well done for getting through this, I know it’s a long post – you’re pretty much an “endurance reader” now. Love you.

 

 

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Pre-Ultra: Don’t Underestimate how Unprepared I am

T-minus four days. This time on Saturday I might be a) a few hours into my first ever ultramarathon (least likely), b) dead already (more likely), or c) lost, broken and crying in a ditch (most likely).

If I could run a mile for every time I’ve been told “you’re a f****** idiot”, Saturday would be a walk in the park. I genuinely appreciate these comments because they ease the pressure of expectation: if anyone actually thinks I’m fit enough to run even half an ultra, I’d probably spiral into despair at the hopelessness of attempting to avoid disappointment. The very last thing I want to hear is “you can do it”.

 

Injury

The bottom line is that I’ve never run more than about 15 miles. After drunkenly signing up in April (after reading one book about running and realising I can run a half-marathon) I overtrained and developed shin splints within a week, crushing all hope of building up to 50 miles (80km). The shin splints are much better but not totally healed – I still get the odd twinge, so come Saturday my legs will be held together with KT tape and compression socks.

 

Illness

As if I wasn’t doomed enough, two lymph nodes have decided to swell up under my left arm, making it painful to sleep, get dressed and move my arm away from my body. The same thing happened last December and I recovered, but not without a lot of pain and discomfort. I’ve actually been organised enough to contact my doctor via an online form, so I should know my likely prognosis by the end of today – but unless I die before Saturday I have every intention of at least crossing the starting line, high on painkillers if necessary.

 

Preparation and Equipment (*lack of)

Despite half-decent academic grades and marginally-above-average fitness levels, I’m an extremely useless adult. I make ridiculous decisions, refuse to go back on them, then take a way-too-laid-back approach to resolving the issues I create for myself. For example, last week I ordered my hydration pack for the event. Yesterday I ordered my first ever pair of trail running shoes. I hope they fit. Today I googled “how to prepare for an ultramarathon”. The results of that search suggest that I should have done so about six months ago (before I even signed up… hmm). At some point this week I’ll go shopping for some food, blister plasters and so on. I’ll probably even write a list.

 

Event Requirements

As if 50 miles wasn’t unachievable enough in itself, this 50 miles is in the self-descriptive Peak District. It encompasses 2,600 metres of ascent – that’s the same as two Ben Nevises – along rough terrain. AND it’s not exactly signposted – on top of putting one foot in front of the other and staying fed and watered, I’ll have to navigate. I don’t have a GPS watch so it’ll be a map and compass job, and while I’ve done plenty of navigating in the past I’ve also got lost (a lot). There’s also a list of mandatory kit, which includes full body cover, a headtorch, a whistle, food, water, etc, and electronic checkpoints to eliminate cheating. AND some checkpoints have strict cut-off times, so it’s not like I can plod along and finish the course in October. In all honestly I’ll be thrilled to make the first one – which is four and a half hours in.

 
Attitude

Despite everything, I’m absolutely buzzing. I’m going in with the expectation that I’ll manage a few miles before having to be collected in a whimpering heap, hating the world and renouncing exercise as an unnecessary evil. I expect to be the least fit, least prepared and least experienced entrant, which suits me as I feel no pressure to achieve a certain time or distance. Despite usually being super-competitive, this time I’m happy to be totally self-centred: all I care about is what I can do, regardless of the super-athletes I’ll be surrounded by (at the start, at least), and I don’t care what anyone else thinks. I’m simultaneously playing mad scientist and hapless guinea pig in a cruel experiment – I’ve never really pushed myself mentally or physically, so I’m interested to find out where my breaking point is and if I can reach it on my own.

Apart from the running bit, it sounds like a great weekend. As a “festival [of running]” there’ll be outdoorsey people, stunning scenery, camping, food and shenanigans, and I’ve never done anything like it. I can’t wait; I’ll be the one stumbling in to the party, clueless, uninvited and incapable of keeping up with the others, but keen as muck – probably having forgotten half my mandatory kit, semi-dressed with shoelaces untied and shorts on inside out, grinning like a Cheshire cat. So please keep the “f****** idiot” comments coming, pray for me on Saturday, and definitely don’t expect great things!

SUP Derwentwater

Although notably less holy (and probably less graceful) than Jesus, I felt privileged to experience my first time standing on water in this beautiful place. Derwentwater is cradled by mountains on all sides, punctuated by explorable islands and delightfully less touristy than other lakes.

A quick bit of Googling that morning narrowed my search for a lake to SUP on to Derwentwater or Windermere. We’d settled on kayaking Coniston Water and hire didn’t appear as readily available at other places – I would have loved to try Wasdale below Scafell Pike but could only finded guided SUP tours. (We were set on hire due to cost, time and a stubborn, “I can do it myself” attitude).

Well aware of Windermere’s popularity, I called Derwentwater Marina with a few preliminary (probably silly) questions (see Beginner’s Advice: Stand Up Paddleboarding) and booked two SUPs for three hours from midday for £22 each. We left Ambleside and arrived 45 minutes later. The marina people were friendly and gave us a quick safety brief and a basic map, but didn’t bog us down with  rules or admin. Getting sized up for paddles and buoyancy aids was quick and easy, and I was pleased to be on (not in!) the water within a few minutes.

I kneeled until we’d left the harbour area as instructed, surprised by how stable the board felt. I was pleased to find it easy to stand up and balance after an initial, slightly wobbly stage. Then I had to figure out how I was supposed to paddle.

Being used to a kayak, I expected to have to change sides every other stroke or so or end up going in circles. I’m not sure how you’re meant to do it but I found that I had a surprising amount of control over my direction of travel paddling on just one side. It might have something to do with the paddle entering at a steeper angle and pushing through the water almost vertically. You can alter your course by tweaking the “shape” of your pull – this means you can turn right even if the paddle is on your right.

Derwentwater is a glorious location. We passed about six other SUPers in total during our three-hour stint and a few more kayakers, but given the size of the lake this was nothing; most were paddling around near the marina, and we went over half an hour without seeing a soul. We travelled south along the west side of the lake, feeling like we’d found heaven under the clear blue sky, between the hazy mountains and above the calm, dark water. The sun was hot so I relished a dip when we stopped for lunch at a secluded, smooth-stoned beach. The shallows were warm and brownish algae made the stones super-slippery but it got deep and cool very quickly. I didn’t drown, get bitten by a pike or poisoned by algae, so I can also recommend swimming in Derwentwater.

From there  we headed off south east, past a tiny, one-tree island and towards a large, forested island with a child-ridden beach. We paddled around its east side and headed back towards the marina. As the last slog usually does, and given that we were pressed for time having enjoyed the water so much, this was quite hard-going. The headwind disturbed the previously flat water and the sun beared down on our sweaty backs. This bit showed me that SUPing is actually quite a  good workout if you maintain a decent pace for a while – it really works your core, back, arms and legs. Google reckons that a 75kg person burns about 500 calories per hour.

We got back on time and reluctantly returned our kit. Reflecting on my experience, it’s not at all what I expected. I had this idea that SUPing was like a slower, boring version of kayaking – why stand when you can sit? Actually I think it’s incomparable. Seeing the water from a few feet higher up gives you a wider vertical field of vision, a totally different perspective. I’d almost say it feels more liberating as you can move your legs, so have greater control over your body position. It’s easier to twist, bend and lean. You’re more likely to fall in, but neither Bertie or I did and if we had it would have provided respite from the relentless sun! I’m sure it would have been different if we hadn’t been so blessed with the weather (with temperatures in the early thirties for most of the day).

So my final verdict is that SUPing is great, I’ll be going again and I’d recommend it to anyone – particularly at Derwentwater. If you’re thinking of trying it for the first time, see my post Beginner’s Advice: Stand Up Paddleboarding  Enjoy!

Endnote: Derwentwater marina is at the northern tip of the lake, five minutes from Keswick – a bustling town offering plenty of post-SUP beer. Or you could be like us and climb/scramble Helvellyn via Striding Edge immediately after returning the SUPs and have to rush back to Spoons (last place to serve food) to avoid starvation… But that’s another blog post.